Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
